Diamond Education

GIA: Gemological Institute of America

The GIA Diamond Grading Report includes an assessment of a diamond's 4C's – color, clarity, cut, and carat weight – along with a plotted diagram of its clarity characteristics and a graphic representation of the diamond’s proportions. For standard round brilliant cut diamonds falling in the D-Z color range, the report also includes a GIA Cut grade.

The GIA Laboratory issues diamond grading reports for loose, natural diamonds in the D-Z color range that weigh 0.15 carats or more. GIA Diamond Grading Reports are not issued for synthetics, simulants, mounted diamonds or those that have undergone unstable treatments, such as fracture filling or coating. And while reports may be issued for diamonds that have been laser drilled or HPHT processed, these stable treatments are prominently disclosed on the report.

Date
Date diamond was graded by GIA

Report #
Unique GIA report identification number that is registered with the GIA's global database

Laser Inscription Registry
A diamond may be micro-laser inscribed with its unique identification number. This number will appear on all GIA diamond dossier reports, and is optional on a full GIA report.

Shape and Cutting Style

Description of the outline of the diamond (shape) and the facet of the pattern arrangement as well as style of cut, i.e., brilliant, step, mixed, modified.

Measurements
Dimensions of the diamond listed as "minimum diameter – maximum diameter X depth" for round diamonds and "length x width x depth" for fancy shapes

Carat Weight
Diamond weight given in carats, recorded to the nearest hundredth of a carat

Color Grade
Assesses the absence of color from colorless to light yellow or brown as compared to GIA Master Color Comparison Diamonds

Clarity Grade
Assesses the relative absence of inclusions (internal characteristics) and blemishes (external characteristics). Clarity is graded on a relative scale from Flawless to Included based on size, nature, number, position, and relief of characteristics visible under 10x magnification.

Cut Grade
Assesses the cut quality for standard round brilliant diamonds that fall on the GIA D to Z color grading scale. Cut quality incorporates the aspects of face-up appearance, design and craftsmanship

Finish
Represents the quality of the surface condition (polish) and the size, shape and placement of the facets, including the evenness of the outline (symmetry)

Polish
Overall condition or smoothness of the diamond's surface, assessed on a scale ranging from excellent to poor

Symmetry
Exactness of the diamond's outline, as well as the shape, placement and alignment of its facets, assessed on a scale ranging from excellent to poor

Fluorescence
Strength and color of the diamond when viewed under long-wave ultraviolet light. A fluorescence description of “non” represents a range of fluorescence from indiscernible to very faint

Comments
Describes additional identifying characteristics or features that are not otherwise represented by the report

Plotting Diagram
Approximates the shape and cutting style of the diamond. Symbols indicate the type or nature, position and the approximate size of a clarity characteristic

GIA Color and Clarity Scales
Illustrates the GIA color and clarity grades and their relative positions in the GIA diamond grading system

GIA Cut Scale
Illustrates the GIA cut grades and their relative position in the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System. Available for standard round brilliant cut diamonds in the D to Z color range and flawless to I3 clarity range.

Proportion Diagram
Graphic profile representations of the diamond’s actual proportions

Key to Symbols
Lists the characteristics and symbols shown on the plotting diagram, if present and are listed in order of grade setting significance.

Security Features
To safeguard report integrity and facilitate document authentication, GIA Reports contain a suite of document security components including hologram, security screen and micro-print lines

GIA Diamond Dossier Reports

This is an abbreviated version of the full GIA Report. It is only issued for diamonds weighing under 2.00 carats. There are no plotted diagrams or complete keys to symbols featured. In lieu of this, one grade setting inclusion with location is indicated.

Before purchasing a diamond accompanied only by a Diamond Dossier report, it is important to check with a qualified experienced diamond grader to determine the number, severity and location of all inclusions.


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AGS: American Gem Society

The AGS Laboratories offers a variety of diamond grading reports to suit the specific needs of diamond manufacturers, their customers, retail jewelers, and of course, the ultimate retail consumer. These reports are designed to present the necessary diamond quality information in a clear, concise and complete presentation.

Diamond Cut
Illustrates the GIA cut grades and their relative position in the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System. Available for standard round brilliant cut diamonds in the D to Z color range and flawless to I3 clarity range.

AGS Ideal is a trademarked and registered term that applies only to finest cut diamonds. AGS Ideal is recognized throughout the world as the pinnacle of diamond cutting and as such commands higher prices at the wholesale and retail levels. Simply stated, AGS Ideal is the best. How well a diamond is cut is the single most important determinant of value of all of the four "Cs."

Diamond Clarity
Clarity information is also presented with numeric and verbal descriptors. The numeric system is the same as for cut from zero to ten. The verbal descriptors are trade terms originally developed to describe diamonds for diamond manufacturers and retailers. Over time, these terms have become recognized at the consumer level as well.

The diamond clarity terms are:
Flawless/Internally Flawless (F/IF)
Very,very slightly included (VVS1 and VVS2)
Very slightly included (VS1 and VS2)
Slightly included (SI1 and SI2)*
Included (I1, I2, and I3)

*The clarity terms were originated by the Gemological Institute of America many years ago. Over time, diamond manufacturers, retailers, and laboratories have adopted the term SI3. This is supposed to represent a class of diamonds between SI2 and I1. Neither the Gemological Institute of America nor the American Gem Society recognize this term for diamond grading.

Diamond Color
A diamond's color is determined by comparing the diamond to be graded with a master set of diamonds specifically chosen and graded for color. Color is one of the four "Cs" evaluated in the grading process. The diamond to be graded is held by diamond tweezers and physically placed next to the individual diamonds in the master set. The diamond grader makes the decision by comparing the diamond to be graded against the master set. It is a judgment call and requires very good eyes as well as extensive experience.

The AGS Color Grade indicates where a diamond's color falls on a scale that runs from 0 (colorless) to 10 (light yellow or light brown). There is another scale that is used by the trade to determine color. Like the clarity grade mentioned above, the color grading was developed by the Gemological Institute of America. Their system begins at the letter "D" and in a series of steps moves down from "D" all the way to "Z".

0 – Colorless
An unmounted diamond with this grade shows no trace of color to even a trained AGS Laboratories diamond grader under controlled conditions when observed either through the table or the pavilion.

0.5 and 1.49
Essentially Colorless. An unmounted diamond in these grades will show only the faintest traces of color to trained AGS Laboratories diamond graders under controlled viewing conditions when observed through the pavilion.

1.5 to 3.49
Near Colorless. Under grading conditions, an unmounted diamond in these grades will show a slight trace of color. When mounted in jewelry, it will appear colorless.

3.5 to 4.99
Faint. If a diamond in these grades weighs less than approximately 0.50 carat, it will appear near colorless when mounted. In a larger diamond, a little color may be discerned.

5.0 to 7.49
Very light. A diamond in these grades will show some discernable color. The larger the diamond, the more noticeable the color.

7.5 to 10.0
Light. The color is seen with increasing ease as the grade goes from 7.5 to 10.

Beyond the AGS 10 Color Grade, a yellow or brown diamond is classified as a fancy color. With colors other than yellow or brown, any distinct tint qualifies as fancy, even if it is faint. However, as noted at the beginning of this section, the AGS Standards do not define Color Grades for fancy color diamonds.

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EGL: European Gem Laboratory USA

EGL USA is one of the largest and oldest independent gemological institutions focusing on gemstone certification and research. Originally part of an international network founded in Europe in 1974, EGL USA opened its first U.S. lab in the heart of New York's international diamond and jewelry district in 1977.

In 1986 EGL USA became independently owned. Today the EGL USA Group has laboratories in New York City, Los Angeles, Vancouver, and Toronto.

EGL USA is not affiliated with any other EGL labs outside North America.

Every certificate issued by an EGL USA lab states "A member of the EGL USA Group." Certificate numbers are preceded by either "US" or "CA," to indicate country of origin and to provide consumers the assurance that their certificate has been issued by a member of the EGL USA Group.

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Engagement Rings Direct specializes in the finest cut diamonds. We offer diamonds with proportions that display maximum brilliance.

Hearts and Arrows

Diamonds cut with precisely aligned, carefully shaped facets and combined with optimum proportions produce an incredibly brilliant phenomenon, known as Hearts & Arrows. This phenomenon appears in the finest ideal cut round diamond when viewed through a gemscope. Hearts & Arrows are usually found only in diamonds that meet American Gem Society Laboratories' AGS "0" Ideal Cut requirements but can be observed in excellent cut GIA graded diamonds as well.
Diamonds featuring Hearts and Arrows require the cutting skills of a master cutter and can take up to 3 times longer to produce. It takes six perfectly aligned facets to create a single heart. If any facet is off, the entire pattern will be distorted. Therefore, the rarity and value of these diamonds can be considerable.
To view our Hearts and Arrows Collection, please click here.

Preferred Diamonds:

To view our Preferred Diamond Collection, please click here.

Premium Diamonds:

Diamonds offered by Engagement Rings Direct which are classified as Premium have specific characteristics which offer the most fire and scintillation. Below is a list of our Premium Diamond proportions by cut:



To view our Premium Diamond Collection, please click here.

There are pros and cons to purchasing a diamond from a web-based retailers. Here are a few tips to help you select the most appropriate source for your diamond purchase.

In the online diamond world, there are two types of business models – marketers and jewelers.

Diamond marketers focus on creating brand names, dealer partnerships and corporate infrastructure. Generally they employ customer service representatives to handle customer needs and rely primarily on an online ordering process. Because most marketers generally do not personally hold the inventory they sell, the diamonds are drop-shipped directly from their vendors directly to the customer and do not pass any type of hands-on quality inspection.

Online jewelers, like a traditional local jeweler are usually managed by experienced diamond and jewelry experts who are often graduate gemologists. They have direct contact with the diamonds they offer.

These operations generally have a smaller market share and focus on developing personal relationships with clients. A client can have direct consultation regarding their personal criteria. This helps insure that they will be knowledgeable enough to make an educated choice. Direct access to the diamonds, either through their own personal inventory or through a close network of fellow dealers, allows online jewelers to inspect and evaluate each diamond for quality purposes. They can also suggest diamonds which offer the most value to their clients. An example of this is in determining if an SI1 is considered "eye-clean" and worth a drop in clarity in order to place more emphasis on a diamond with better light performance.

Low Overhead / Increased Value
Unlike traditional brick and mortar jewelry stores, online jewelers are not forced to carry excess overhead. This factors into the cost of your purchase. Expenses associated with large showroom space, manufacturing costs, on-hand inventory and local advertising ultimately drive up prices and reduce consumer value. Online dealers, on the other hand, generally have smaller operations and can pass these savings on to the customer.

Wholesale Industry Relationships
Many successful online diamond vendors operate within the wholesale diamond trade, thus they have large wholesaler inventories at their disposal. Many retail operations, when trying to maintain an "in-house" diamond inventory are limited because of the high cost of owning the "right" inventory. They can only buy so much due to financial resources and their ability to resell the inventory they already own.

Diamond Viewings
Another key distinction between marketers and jewelers is the ability of a client to view a selection of diamonds at an office visit. Although online jewelers have an international reach via the internet, most only have a single office. If a client is willing, a reputable jeweler will offer personal appointments for the purpose of viewing as well as an educational presentation and guidance in selecting the diamond that best matches their specifications.

Custom Jewelry Production
A good online jeweler will have an in-house or personal jewelry manufacturer on hand to create custom pieces based on the specific diamond and aesthetic tastes of the client. This service offers more uniqueness of the jewelry design and another increase in overall value. Most online diamond marketers offer a limited selection of "stock" items that are available based on the most popular styles and are not customized for the exact needs of the customer.

Negotiation
Online marketers have set prices on their inventory. While their reach does allow them to offer low prices, a consumer cannot negotiate for a desired price. A good online jeweler will generally have some flexibility with their vendors to personally negotiate for a lower price on the customers behalf.

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